(August 2004)

In an attempt to make an empire waist dress with a gathered bodice (without an actual pattern), I made this muslin. It had to be taken apart several times and resewn, but it helped me to get the bodice right. It's made of a cotton. A bit too stiff, but wearable around the home. I made it sleeveless, since it's so hot right now.

I tried for the first time to finish the neckline by sewing on a bias cut piece of fabric and then turning it inside and top-stitching. I learned quite a few things.

The one part I couldn't get right is the skirt. I really wante something like Butterick 4063, but didn't know how to do it. I just made it a simple A-line, but now it looks like a pregnancy dress (although there is not enough room for an actual pregnant belly =). I hope I can figure this out the next time (August 2004).

These are some pictures from the process of making this pattern. I first took a regular top pattern (McCall's 4056) with darts and did a FBA (full bust adjustment). Then I sewed up a muslin. After I adjusted it quite a bit, I transfered the changes to my pattern, measure the length of the bodice and shortened the pattern to empire waist length. I also slashed and spread the sleeves to make bell sleeves. I added a skirt that I drafted myself.

It still took quite a bit of adjusting and in the end I got rid of the sleeves, because this fabric did not have enough drape for sleeves like this.

Then I took the whole (!) thing apart, since I had only machine basted everything. This was the hardest thing to do, but I learned a lot. Now I am ready to try the real fabric.

Update: Now, as I look at the pictures, I think the skirt in the first attempt (left) was better than the last one (top).